When you think of Milan, you typically think of shopping, shopping...and more shopping. People from all over the world flock the fashion-filled streets and shop the latest trends the city has to offer. But beyond the designer names and grandiose buildings there’s another side to this northern Italian metropolis that you’ll miss if you’re not looking for it.
Just about a 20 minute walk northwest of the gothic Duomo di Milano there’s a gorgeous green oasis full of some of the city’s richest history and architecture. Parco Sempione was established in the late 1800s and stretches to be about 40 acres long. In 1906 it was used to host the The Milan International - a global expo that was enjoyed by four million people from around the world.
Now the park is frequented by locals and tourists alike. There’s a wealth of photo opportunities at Parco Sempione. Countless fountains and flowers cover the grounds. The full green grass is shaded by trees, making certain parts of Parco Sempione the perfect place for a picnic. Grab a bottle of vino and a crusty baguette from a panetteria (“bakery”) and enjoy the outdoors.
But there’s a significant feature of Parco Sempione was around long before this idyllic park was given its name.
Castello Sforzesco began construction way back in 1358. Behind the castle gates lies a turbulent history waiting to be uncovered. The renaissance structure is a beloved landmark in Milan - but it wasn’t always that way. Castello Sforzesco was overtaken by the French, the Austrians, the Spanish, Napoleon and the Austrians - again. These foreign invasions took place all the way until the mid-1800s. In fact, the castle’s history was so tumultuous that locals tried to destroy it several times themselves.
The History
It wasn’t until the late 1800s during Italy's unification period when the castle began its long journey to becoming the cultural monument that it is today. For that, we can thank Italian architect Luca Beltrami who restored some parts of the castle to its former glory in the early 1900s.
But before the unification of Italy - and before the invasions - the castle and its grounds were owned by two very powerful Italian families. The Visconti family is responsible for beginning construction on what we know today to be Castello Sforzesco. Later, the Sforza family took over, which is where the towering monument got its name. The story of this castle’s history reads a little bit less like a textbook and more like a medieval-Italian soap opera.
For around 200 years the Visconti’s power spread throughout Milan. Their wealth conquered the area during their rule as lords and eventually dukes. However, this long line of power ended with the death of Filippo Maria Visconti in 1447. When he died Filippo Maria only had one family member left: his illegitimate daughter Bianca Maria. When she was just six years old, she married the powerful warrior Francesco Sforza that was 24 years her senior.
Also an illegitimate child, Francesco Sforza came from a very influential family of Italian warriors known as condottieri - the leaders of a group of mercenaries who served the lord of whatever city they lived in. Years later, these mercenaries started taking land - and cities - for themselves. Allegedly one of the most successful of these condottieri was Sforza's father Muzio Attendolo Sforza. Francesco and his father Muzio fought alongside each other for years. One day, Francesco would win Milan and become even more successful than is father was.
All this time, Francesco Sforza was fighting for Florence (appointed by the Medici) and against his father-in-law, Filippo Maria Visconti. Visconti asked Sforza for help when he was falling ill. Then Sforza learned soon after that Visconti turned around and offered the city of Milan to Sforza's enemy, Alfonso king of Naples.
The people of Milan were not very happy about this decision. So they hired Sforza as their captain general to take the city for themselves. And soon (after a few years of fighting), Sforza was able to enter the city of Milan as duke of the city. During the Sforza rule, the family brought in accomplish artists and architects to support the arts in Milan, much like the Medici family of Florence. For example, Duke Ludovico Sforza was a patron of Leonardo da Vinci.
Knowing more about what took place on these grounds makes walking around them so much more exciting. The history of these families really comes alive as you explore the castle and the gardens. Here you can see the crest of the Sforza family, which includes a viper with a child in its mouth. This symbol was also apart of the Visconti family crest.
The Tower and the Courtyard of Arms
One of the most noticeable and majestic parts of the castle that was reconstructed by Beltrami is the central tower known as “The Tower of Filarete.” When it was built in the 1450s its purpose was to serve as an elegant entry to the main gate. But later in the 16th century, it was used as a powder room for French soldiers. On the tower you can see St. Ambrose, who is the patron saint of Milan.
When you walk through any one of the main entrances to the castle, you will immediately see the Courtyard of Arms. This area was also restored by Beltrami and now features some ancient art on the walls around the perimeter. There are statue fragments and old sarcophagi from 3 A.D. and 4 A.D.
The Castle of Milan
The Castle of Milan was first used to host the Renaissance court of Milan in the late 1400s. It which was originally owned by the Visconti family was made even larger and more grandiose by Sforza himself. When all of the invasions begun, the castle was instead used by foreign forces as a fortress that host stables, barracks and storage space.
The Spanish dominated the castle for a long period of time - about 200 hundred years to be exact. During this period the castle underwent some major renovations. It was still being used as a fort until Napoleon came in. He wanted to take the fort and turn it into an impressive project he would call the "Bonaparte Forum."
After all of these invasions and meddling of their property, the people of Milan were hesitant to keep this castle around. To them, it served as a reminder of all of the years the city was overtaken by foreign forces. Talk of renovation for historic preservation didn't begin until the 19th century.
The Ducal Courtyard
This gorgeous courtyard filled with flowers and greenery is surrounded by the Ducal apartments of the Sforza family. Galeazzo Maria Sforza lived in the apartments in the mid 1400s. The ground and first floor of the courtyard is connected by a staircase designed in a way that the duke could get to the upper floors of the apartment on horseback.
If you plan on visiting Castello Sforzesco, there is a museum inside that features the work of some of Italy's most famous artists and architects. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. You can get free tickets to the museum if you go one hour before closing, on a Tuesday after 2 p.m. or on the first Sunday of the month. Michelangelo's last unfinished work the Rodanini Pietà is housed in this museum. He continued to finish this sculpture until the last moments of his life.