Palio di Siena: The History of the Longest Lasting Horse Race

Twice a year, during the heat of the Tuscan summer, the people of Siena are suspended in time for 90 seconds. For three laps, the audience holds their breath as their eyes follow the Palio di Siena, a horse race celebrated by locals and tourists alike.

Although only about a minute is spent on the actual race, this event is an all-day affair because of the intense rivalries and strong loyalties of the Sienese contrade.

The Tuscan town of Siena, rich in history and traditions. This view overlooks part of the town and a church on a hill.

The Contrade

Wandering through the brick streets of this small Tuscan town, you will quickly notice the display of flags lining the walls of the streets and the colorful tiles posted to each building. These symbols represent the contrade, or districts, within Siena. Understanding the contrade is essential in understanding the Palio.

Flags of the different contrade hang from a store front, each touting a unique color pattern and symbols.

Originally, there were an estimated 59 contrade, but today there are but 17, with a number reduced in the early 1900s. The current boundaries between the contrade were drawn in 1730 by Beatrice Violante of Baviera, the governor of Siena.

Most of the contrade symbols are animals, including mythological creatures. The 17 contrades are: the Eagle, Snail, Wave, Panther, Forest, Tortoise, Owl, Unicorn, Shell, Tower, Ram, Caterpillar, Dragon, Giraffe, Porcupine, She-Wolf and Goose.

Pottery with the abbreviation and colors of each contrada frames the archway of the Italian Cooks Association. Above is a painting of the Palio in action.

The contrade were a product of the middle ages, beginning with social and community groupings and later divided for military functions, as Siena was known as a town for mercenary armies.

Each contrada has a defined set of allies and rivals, making the race a competitive event for natives of Siena. A rival losing is just as rewarding as one’s contrada winning, with reputation on the line.

Allegiance to each contrade is determined by place of birth, rather than lineage, said Carlo, a Siena tour guide and local, who is of the “Valdimontone,” or ram, contrada.

“If you bring something back from Siena, make sure it has the ram,” Carlo said with pride.

Every contrada has its own museum, church (with a patron saint), plaza, flag, symbol and traditions, Carlo said. One’s contrada is the next closest bond to one’s family.

History of the Palio

The Palio has been an important event in Siena’s history for a time now, Carlo said.

“Although we don't know the all the origins of the Palio, there are plenty of artifacts to show that Siena has been having community games since medieval times,” Carlo said.

Hand-carved and painted, this light post represents the Goose Contrada. Each district lines their walls with these handmade and ornate light posts, always reminding you which contrada you are in.

Evidence suggests that equestrian games were popular in this area even in pre-Roman times, when the Etruscans occupied Siena. A small village near Siena, Poggio Civitale, has a 6th century B.C.E. pediment depicting jockeys riding horses in garb similar to that of the modern Palio.

Documents from the 1100s indicate another horse race held in Siena, but this one was run outside the walls of the city. This type of endurance race is known as a “Palio alla Lunga.”

The goose light posts guard the entrance to an alley way, which is part of a different contrada as marked down the road.

Contrade were not involved in the races held in the 13th and 14th centuries, instead participating in their own games, which Carlo said above. These horse races were popular among noblemen to show political and military power, which eventually evolved into the race known today, as over time they used commonfolk as jockeys and the race became a form of entertainment, especially with the fall of the Republic of Siena in 1559.

A painting of the race hangs above a restaurant. Although the square where the horse race occurs, Piazza del Campo, was built between the 13th and 14th centuries, Carlo said.

The first Palio was run in 1644; but it was not until July 2, 1656 that the race became a routine event in Siena to celebrate the Madonna of Provenzano, a religious day where the Virgin Mary appeared to the people of Siena near houses belonging to Provenzano Salvani.

In 1701, the tradition of the second race on August 16 was initiated, after the victorious Contrada dell’Oca (Goose) proposed another race to celebrate the Assumption of Mary.

Since the race in 1701, the Palio di Siena has been held the same two days every year, only put on hold during both world wars.

The Palio Race

Although the main event only lasts for a little more than one minute, Carlo said, the Palio actual takes place over the course of four days, with the race occurring on the end of the fourth day.

With limited room on the track, only 10 contrade can run in each race, leading to a system of rotating the competitors, Carlo said. The rotation works by having a set seven contrade who did not race the previous year (on that day), and then a group of three contrade drawn randomly.

The plaza where the race occurs. During the four days, six trail runs are held to test the health and condition of about 30 horses in order to select 10 to be used in the race. These take place in the morning and the in the afternoon.

Held in the medieval Piazza del Campo, the laps of the race are hard for even the most trained jockeys, as the shell-shape makes turning difficult to complete without stumbling or falling, Carlo said. The ground on the track is covered with clay and sand, making it more suitable for the horses to race on.

Jockeys ride bareback and dressed in the colors of the contrada they are representing.While the jockeys belong to a contrada, the horses are assigned to each contrada by a random drawing, which occurs from 12:30 to 1:30 p.m. on race day.

Then, before the race, the horses are blessed by the priest from the church of their newly assigned contrada. If a horse crosses the finish line first, even without a rider, the contrada will win.

The brick floor is the center of the Palio race, where onlookers can stand for free. Before the race, the horses are blessed inside the churches, while others can only be blessed outside because of spatial issues. If a horse leaves excrement inside the church, it is considered good luck for that contrada.

The only material prize given to the winning contrada is a “drappellone,” which is a flag painted by a new artist each year and kept in the museum of the winning contrada. The main prize of the event, however, is pride and repute, at least until the next year.

It is free to stand in the center of the piazza to watch the race, although it will be crowded and there will be many mixed emotions about the race from locals. You can also watch from a balcony surrounding the piazza (typically a better view), but these come at a cost.

A typical Siena road, marked by colorful light posts, flags and tiles showing the symbols of different contrade.

If you enjoy a blend of history and sport, the Palio di Siena is perfect for you. As the longest running horse race internationally, it is a celebration that gives you a chance to learn about Sienese traditions while being a part of history, even if only for 90 seconds.