Perched upon one of the highest hilltops in Florence, surrounded by the echoes of chirping finches and rustling leaves, stands over 1000 years of history.
The San Miniato al Monte Basilica, which overlooks the entire city of Florence, was built in 1018 and is still actively used as a religious center. Dedicated to Saint Minius, the first Christian martyr of Florence, the journey of this architectural marvel starts in the 3rd century .
The story of St. Minius
Due to the length of time between the death of St. Minius (250 C.E.) and the construction of the church, not much is certain about the historical life of Minius; much of what is told of his life revolves around legend and speculation.
It is believed that Minius, in his early life, was either a Greek merchant or an Armenian prince, who made a pilgrimage to Rome and eventually became a religious hermit in Florence.
Soon after retreating to Florence, Minius became the subject of persecution by Emperor Decius, and (after a few failed attempts to kill him) was beheaded on the shore of the Arno river in 250 C.E., becoming the first Christian martyr in Florence.
The story does not end there, however. According to legend, after being decapitated, Minius calmly collected his head within his arms, placed it back on his shoulders and journeyed back up the hill to the cave he lived in as a hermit, Monte alle Croci. It is here where he supposedly passed on, and where the church and oratory stand to this day.
Architecture of San Miniato
After walking up a hefty trail of stairs and entering through a symbolic (yet very real) gate, you’ll be greeted by a model of Tuscan Romanesque architecture; San Miniato’s history is reflected in its style and structure.
Built upon prior 8th century church, which housed relics thought to be from St. Minius, construction for this grandiose basilica began in 1018 C.E., when Florentine bishop Ildebrando decided to completely rebuild the unkempt facility. Completed in about 1207, the relics of the saint are still preserved in the 11th century altar.
Of traditional Tuscan Romanesque design, green and white marble frame the large basilica; similar colors and patterns can be seen on the facades of Santa Maria del Fiore (also called “The Duomo”) and Santa Croce.
This basilica is also built with the same white marble from the quarry that Michelangelo used for his sculptures, such as his David, said Lauren, who is studying abroad from the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design.
“Its where he [Michelangelo] got all of his marble from, it’s a famous quarry,” Lauren said. “How they got all of this heavy marble up here just blows my mind.”
Though perplexing to the modern viewer, the massive size of this church was a common aspect of Romanesque style, because churches had to accommodate numerous monks and priests, as well as visiting pilgrims. However, this large basilica remains one of the highest building in Florence, making it a true architectural marvel as to how it was built.
Within the basilica is an array of mosaics and symbols that provide the patron with beautiful, yet meaningful, artwork. One symbol that is repeatedly used is the three-pointed trifold, which represents one of the main tenets of Christianity: the Holy Trinity, Lauren said.
“These represent the Father, Son and Holy Spirit, and usually in Christianity they’re pointed upwards,” Lauren said, pointing to a trifold above the entrance, “But here they seem used for more of an aesthetic purpose, there is one looking down, one is facing sideways.”
Much of the symbolism rests within the marble inlay, with the marble pavement of the nave (central aisle of the church) retaining its original pattern dating back to the 13th century. One noted symbol is the central Zodiac, which was originally a pagan symbol, but assumed a Christian meaning with its 12 signs referring to the 12 apostles.
Original frescoes from the 13th and 14th century illustrate the walls of the basilica, though some are more preserved than others. Fragments of frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi can be found in the church’s crypt as well, but it is closed off by a 14th century iron gate.
Cemetery
Upon walking through the tall gates into the grounds of the monastery, you will be welcomed by the smell of roses, and become surrounded by an array of statues and tombs. Just outside the basilica, to the left and right of the central pathway, lies an actively used cemetery, which opened in 1847.
This cemetery, though not the main destination for visitors, is a beautiful part of the basilica, with its looping vines and floral arches encompassing statues bearing personal resemblances.
Though there is always a morbid or eerie association with cemeteries, this final resting place is worth viewing in a respectful manner. Buried here is Carlo Collodi, the creator of Pinocchio.
There are also people buried within the floors of the church, with graves carved into the marble surface, a common practice in these churches.
Just remember if you decide to visit, this is a place for reflection, so be respectful and understand that this place holds religious meaning, like the church, and is still being used.
Monastic Pharmacy
On your way out of the basilica, make sure to stop by the monastic pharmacy, where products made by the brothers of San Miniato. All of these products are handcrafted by and within the monastery, and include goods like beeswax candles, chocolate desserts, biscuits and jam tarts.
The shop is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., but be aware of a break between 12:15 p.m. to 4 p.m. where you may find it closed.
You can access the San Miniato basilica by bike, car, foot or bus. Be prepared for a hike if you choose to go on foot, and make sure to follow the signs which will easily lead you to the basilica. Check here for more information on accessibility.
As one of the highest building in Florence, the San Miniato overlooks the progression of Florentine history, from which you can view the metropolitan area of Florence, as well as the last standing elements of the medieval walls that once surrounded the Tuscan city. As Lauren said, “It’s 1000 years old, and people can’t even create works like this nowadays, with all the technology we have.” Thus, San Miniato is a must see for architecture and sight-seers alike.