“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”. John Steinbeck may have said it best, describing the surrealness of Positano in a Harpers Bazar article published in 1953.
What was once a poor fisherman’s town is now a famed tourist destination, and the reason why is clear. There is nowhere in the world quite like Positano with its endless winding roads, panoramic views of the clear blue Tyrrhenian sea, steep cliffs that home the village and of course famous black pebble beaches.
Where to stay:
Le Sirenuse is a luxury boutique hotel nestled hillside in Italy’s Amalfi coast, and I can assure you it is nothing short of an absolute dream. In 1951, Le Sirenuse was renovated from a summer retreat of the Neapolitan Sersale family. The home-transformed-hotel never lost a touch of its warm and inviting charm. Hospitality beckons as soon as you enter the lobby, and you feel as though you have entered into a fantasy that is too perfect to exist in this world.
Named after the Islands of the Sirens, where legend says mermaids lured sailors to their deaths with their beautiful songs, each room has a balcony that stares out to the same sea the mermaids sang their sweet melodies so many years ago.
The idyllic grounds and the scenic views are captivating. Lemon trees line the outdoor terraces, and flourishing bougainvillea outline the archways of the windows and doors. Greenery plays a vital role in the ambience of all 58 rooms on the property.
The dreamy decor is only part of the allure. The true intrigue is how the four Sersale siblings, who own Le Sirenuse, have managed to keep the hotel in the family, even after being named a leading hotel of the world. Not only will you see the owners at the hotel making sure everything is running smoothly, but also the same staff every time you visit.
One of the brothers, Franco Sersale was a photographer and art connoisseur. His vision defined the style of Le Sirenuse. When Franco died in 2015, his son, Antonio, became his predecessor, looking after the hotel and keeping traditions alive. Antonio describes Positano as “a magical little village which is more vertical rather than horizontal. The houses are nestled into the mountain creating a very picturesque scenery. This, accompanied by charming alleyways filled with flowering vines and hidden stairways, create an unforgettable experience.”
After checking in at Le Sirenuse, you may never want to leave. If you plan on staying at the luxury hotel, start saving now. The average hotel suite costs over $1,000 per night. If that’s simply out of your budget, enjoy the ever so scenic setting by just grabbing a drink at the Champagne & Oyster bar.
Where to eat:
La Sponda is Le Sirenuse’s very own Michelin star restaurant. Vines line the walls, and the smell of fresh lemon infuses the dining room. The room is illuminated by 400 candles, and the moonlight glows through the windows to create the most enchanting dining room I have ever laid eyes on.
Seafood is La Sponda’s specialty. The meals are crafted with local ingredients in order to create the freshest Mediterranean cuisine.
If you have the desire to check eating at the world renown Michelin-star restaurant off of your bucket list, here is my tip: make a reservation now. The ordinary reservation must be placed well over 4 months in advance. If you get a table, you will be considered one of the lucky few who have had the privilege of dining there.
What to do in Positano:
I recommend waking up early while the rest of town is still sleeping for a serene view of the sunrise. You’ll love spending the day wandering the narrow streets and popping your head in the many boutiques that are filled with linen and lemon.
Spiaggia Grande is the main beach in the area and is essential to visit. If you travel to Positano during their peak season, May through August, you’ll find that the beaches get very crowded, so be sure to get to the beach in the morning to reserve a lounge chair. The cost of renting lounge chairs for the entire day is €20 and worth every cent.
Getting to Positano:
From Sorrento, you can travel to Positano by bus or ferry. Train service does not go directly to Positano. Sorrento is the nearest train stop, where you can hire a taxi, take the ferry or catch a bus for the nine-mile journey. An all-day Amalfi bus pass that runs from Sorrento to Positano, and then makes its last stop in Amalfi, is €10. I would suggest leaving early and staying late as the busses get very crowded. During the height of season, you can spend hours trying to get on a bus back to Sorrento. Instead, just stay for the sunset or opt for the ferry.
However you decide to get there, enjoy the endless beauty Positano has to offer. It’s a destination like no other.
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