In the most unlikely of places along the coast of Capri is a living, breathing piece of Italian fashion history who can easily be overlooked if you are walking a little too fast. Perched calmly and inconspicuously in his chair outside a small shop named Jolanda, is Riccardo Sgroi, making shoes with his bare hands. If you visit Capri, you cannot leave without experiencing the art Riccardo has to offer.
“Yes, I love it. It is my passion,” says Riccardo, as he masterfully brought a sandal to life in his hands. Riccardo is a 25 year old shoe maker from Naples, Italy, who has been making and repairing shoes for 6 years. He makes all his shoes from scratch, starting with the best materials Italy has to offer.
“The leather is from Tuscany, which is the best leather in this whole country,” says Riccardo, as he swiftly cuts small pieces of leather and hammers them together along the frame of what will soon be a sandal. And its true, Tuscany is famous for its vegetable-tanned leather. This natural way of creating leather results in some of the most durable, yet smoothest leather in this world.
Keeping the fashion alive
Riccardo is a 3rd generation shoemaker, who learned the craft from his uncle and cousin, who were taught by their grandfather. Not much has changed since his grandfather’s time when it comes to making shoes.
“My grandfather had a shoe shop in Naples in 1946, and made sure to teach my family everything about shoes” Riccardo said. “It was his way of passing down the family’s rich history to his son, and my uncle passed it down to me.”
Just like textbooks keep records of history through words, Riccardo records fashion history with each shoe he makes. Italy is famous for its fashion, with shoes easily at the top of the list for the most sought after items by tourists. Going back centuries, Italians have always valued shoes. Riccardo would be considered both a cordwainer and a cobbler, a shoe craftsman and a person who repairs shoes, respectively. Tie-up sandals called “gladiators” in today’s society were common footwear in the Roman empire.
What customers get when Riccardo makes them their shoes, is therefore a piece of history. Riccardo uses the same techniques his grandfather used in the 40s. In fact, he uses the same techniques the Romans used. Each shoe is a time piece of Italy’s vibrant fashion culture, making the shoe far more valuable than what is sold in surrounding shoe shops.
A Personal Preference
Even though he mostly makes shoes for wide-eyed tourists, Riccardo says his real love lies in repairing shoes.
“I prefer to repair. I repair lots of sandals and I know how they work. There is something beautiful about bringing a shoe back to life, that goes beyond making them from scratch,” he says.
But this preference does not take away from the joy he sees in customers' eyes when he hands them their fresh shoes. They absolutely live for it. If you are lucky enough to visit this culturally shocking island, a stop at Riccardo’s mini shoe factory is a must.
Alexa Perez, a Florida native visiting Capri for the day, caught a glimpse of Riccardo making shoes and could not ignore it.
“The shoes really caught my eye because of their authenticity,” she says. And its true, a native Italian man willing to make you custom made shoes that will be ready within 10 minutes is a real gem.
At this particular shop, Riccardo mostly sticks to making sandals for tourists. The sandals range from 40 euro to about 80 euro, and customers get to choose the style of the sandal and color of the laces. By special request, men can also have loafers handmade for them as well.
“The fact that they were made right in front of my eyes was an experience I’ll never forget. I had to take two pairs back home for myself and my sister!” said Perez.
Back to the basics
Riccardo’s process is simple. He measures each customer’s foot and chooses a base. He then uses his multitude of tools to cut, carve, nail, fold, and press leather straps together to form a sandal that fits each customer perfectly. The sandals are made the same way artisans made them during the Roman empire, living up to the expression “fashion never dies”.
To the many people that crowd around Riccardo’s small station and watch in awe as he works, the process may seem easy. In reality, it is far from it. This is a profession that requires concentration and impeccable dexterity. Without proper training, one can get seriously injured. Lets just say hammers and knives are the simplest of the wide array of tools Riccardo works with.
“I have definitely gotten hurt a few times. People see me making sandals and think it is so easy. I cannot begin to explain how many times I have gotten cut or almost hammered my fingers. It is a dangerous thing to do,” says Riccardo.
The universal love of fashion
The art of making shoes also comes with small sacrifices, like the daily journey from home to work. Riccardo lives in Naples, and wakes up early every morning to go to Capri. One bus ride and hour long ferryboat ride later, he has made it. He does this every day except for Tuesdays, so make sure to plan accordingly. He doesn't mind working a bit far from work, because at least he gets to gift tourists with shoes that hold all the love his heart has for shoes.
"I will make this journey every day because I love what I do. People from all around the world can enjoy my shoes, and when they wear them, they wear a piece of my country's fashion history," he says, with a wide grin.
Next time you find yourself wandering around the beautiful island of Capri, make sure to stop by Riccardo's shoe station for an experience just as wholesome as the Blue Grotto.
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