When thinking of Positano, the image of beautiful paths lined with stores offering equally beautiful handmade ceramics and shoes appears in the minds of many. An entire village on a hill overlooks the seaside of a variety of blues that are contrasted against the greenery in the mountains. The air is fresher than in the cities and you can smell the sea breeze from any area.
Just under 4,000 people live in Positano.
A village so entrenched in romance could never be spoiled, right? After the twenty minute walk from the bus stop, you reach the main beach, Spiaggia Grande. The moment I arrived, my face fell. The pebble beach was swarming with tourists and people trying to sell their goods. I felt foolish for buying into the romantic guise of a tourist trap.
The beach was still gorgeous, but there was no space to enjoy it. Laying down your towel somewhere would just meant giving someone the opportunity to kick sand in your face. The area that you could lay down on was sandwiched between a private section and a side where you could not swim, so if you went in the water you wouldn’t be able to spot your things. The chaos of the beach rendered it hard to relish. After my dose of disappointment, I started to explore. I wandered west of the beach and was met by steps.
Off the side of the beach, the steps lead you to a platform that can overlook the crowded beach. This platform looks like a dull dock, but walk a little further and climb the steps that seem to lead you to nowhere.
Eventually, you will find a stone staircase that looks as old as Positano itself. The steps are uneven, so definitely exercise caution as you climb them. Climbing the hidden stairs felt like embarking on an adventure. Once you reach the top there will be a small, locked gate blocking the entrance. This may make you want to turn back, but keep simply hop over it and keep going.
The path you take after the stairs is enchanting. I immediately forgot the crowded beach behind me as I am engulfed by the beauty of the view from the path. Look out over the sea, and in the distance you can see where the water meets small, mountainous islands. The stone ledge throughout the path is overgrown with plants and blends in with the plants and trees growing behind it. Sailboats are scattered throughout the cove and dot the horizon.
This path makes so many paradoxes come to life. Walking down the narrow trail that seems to have an ecosystem of its own makes the world seem so small, but the view of the sea makes it feel like the edge of an infinite world. The empty route makes you feel alone, yet so close to those traveling with you at the same time. Walking down this path is an experience in of itself.
Once you reach the end, you will find an arched entrance. It may be tempting to head down the steps next to it, but it will just lead you to a minuscule beach with a view blocked off by a giant rock wall.
The entryway leads you into a heavily gardened footpath that is elaborately gardened with flowering plants and trees. There are gorgeous plants and flowers all over, transporting you to an oasis.
Go straight and when you reach the dining area, go down the stairs that are labeled W.C., or wash closet. Once you are downstairs, you can exit to the beach. Head to the right and you will find the small beach of Fornillo with crystal clear water for you to enjoy.
The beach is covered in black pebbles and there are giant boulders you can climb and lay out on. The cool water was the perfect remedy for a hot summer day. The hot rocks heated up the towels, making it uber relaxing to lay out.
The beach is completely free, but be sure to bring your own towel! You can rent a beach chair, but it will cost 10 euros. Also, there are kayaks and paddle boards you can rent out, if swimming or laying out aren’t your thing.
Albin, a Swedish man who has been staying in Positano for six months, was telling me about Fornillo beach.
“In a small place that is as busy as Positano, it is necessary to find a place to escape. Fornillo is the perfect combination of calm and fun.”
To swim at this beach and look up to see these enormous, magnificent mountains felt like a privelege. Time seems to stand still and the view is so serene. This beach is much more peaceful than Spiaggia Grande, and less people seem to know about it.
At the far right, there are views of unassuming stone buildings that were actually furnaces for baking bread for Emperor Tiberius when he reigned about 2000 years ago. According to Positano News, Fornillo is named after the italian word for oven, forno. Even from a beach with modern establishments and equipment, you can see the remains of ancient history.
This gorgeous beach is perfect for those trying to get away from the chaos at Marina Grande and its surrounding stores. If you just have a day to spend in Positano, this is the beach to spend it at.
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