Joseph Moussa has been painting on the streets of Florence for 23 years.
“I came to Florence when I was just a boy,” Moussa said.
When he was 17 he moved from his home in Lebanon to study art and architecture in the city some call “the cradle of the renaissance.” He spent most of his 23 years painting near Pitti Palace. Three days ago he decided to set up shop near the romantic Ponte Vecchio, a Florence landmark where the road is lined with jewelry shops.
“I like the detail and location here better,“ he said.
While sketching on the Ponte Vecchio, Moussa leans into his work. His glasses slide down his nose as he focuses in on his craft.
Street artists like Moussa are scattered among Florence’s most significant landmarks, like the bustling Ponte Vecchio that he now calls home. You can find painters, musicians and performers of all sorts lined up around the Duomo or dotted along the plaza near the Uffizi Gallery. These craftsmen color the streets with their easels that are bursting with beautiful hand painted postcards and prints.
You won’t find these masterpieces sitting in one of the many museums that Florence is so well known for; these works of art are made everyday by hand out in the open air. Seeing these artists joyfully working is part of the beauty of being in Florence - it’s like walking through a living art museum.
But there are instances where street artists and musicians are faced with rules and regulations they must follow in order to express themselves out on the streets of Florence. This street musician in Piazza della Repubblica was using overturned plastic pails and scrap metal as a drum kit when he was stopped by two police officers. Without hesitation, the musician packed his things and moved along.
Most of the street artists you’ll find working sell their work, and since no two artists are ever the same each work of art make incredible souvenirs. Different artists sell their works for different prices depending on the scale of the work, the detail and whether or not it is a printed version of another work.
The beautiful painting of the Ponte Vecchio (shown earlier) done by Moussa and is priced at 40 euros, which is an average price for street artist’s work. If you would like to add a new piece to your art collection, be ready to pay cash as most artists will not be able to take card.
Exploring the streets of Florence will lead you down some incredible paths. Art is everywhere you go in Italy - even when you’re not looking for it. Sometimes you have to look down to find some of the city’s most beautiful work.
Sonja is a chalk painter that has been studying in Florence for 10 years. Like Joseph she is not a Florence native: She is from Macedonia. She has been working on her craft here in Florence but it has only been recently where she has gone out into the streets of Florence to share her art with the world.
“It’s an art to be given to everyone - not to sell,” she said.
Sonja said that there are not many people in Florence still studying this special art form (called mandonnari). But, this woman named Gloria also studies the art of mandonnari and does her work on the same street as Sonja. Gloria said these pieces can take her anywhere from about two to three days to complete.
When cars and motorcycles come zip down the street, drivers will carefully weave around Gloria’s works of art in the middle of the road.
This art form has existed in Europe for hundreds of years. It was created in Italy in the 16th century. The name mandonnari comes from the word “Madonna” because the first chalk artists would paint images of St. Mary (or, “the Madonna”) on the streets. To see these artists keep this old tradition alive right in front of you is amazing.
According to Sonja, the most challenging part of mandonnari is doing it in front of everyone on the street. She said that when she was first working and studying, she stayed at home or inside a studio - which was more private. Painting in front of a crowd is scarier she said because when she makes a mistake, it’s out there for everyone to see.
But at the end of the day, she said the rewards of working on her craft outweighs the fear of painting in front of a crowd.
“I think this art is special because it’s a gift to everyone,” Sonja said.
If you want to learn more about the history of street art in Florence, strike up a conversation with one of the many artists lining the street. Stop by and chat with the mastermind behind those watercolor postcards you see on your way to dinner - you never know what you may find!
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